kim cathers

On April 21, Sad Mag writ­ers Jes­sica Rus­sell and Farah Tozy went on assign­ment for Van­cou­verEco-Fashion Week with the intent of dis­cov­er­ing how fash­ionthat most of ephemeral and waste­ful of pur­suitsjus­ti­fies its involve­ment in the eco-friendly scene. How do lux­ury and con­sumerism co-exist with fru­gal­ity and restraint? Over the fol­low­ing days, Jess and Farah dis­cov­ered quite a lot that is new (most of it vin­tage!) in fash­ion and the green move­ment. Part 2 of 3. {Read their first dispatch here.}

After an unbelievable runway show, Jess and Farah caught up with Vancouver eco-designer Kim Cathers. Cathers is a designer and vintage shop owner, a finalist on Project Runway and, excitingly, an advocate for environmentally friendly fashion. In the showrooms, Cathers chatted about her Fall/Winter collection, kdon, which is her second 68 pound challenge sponsored by Value Village. The 68lb challenge partnered up with Value Village to push Cathers to take risks beyond her comfort zone and make thirty pieces for a collection out of second-hand clothing.

 

KIM CATHERS and 68lbs OF CHIC BRILLIANCE // Eco-Fashion Week // P.2

Jess and Farah here! It is hard to sit still after Kim Cathers’ incredible show. We just watched as Cathers debuted one stunning look after another. Our favorite pieces included a shirt made of men’s blazers, a belted dress made entirely out of pants (the back pockets intentionally visible) and a collaged skirt made of the linings of men’s suits.

Cathers is fearless with her designs and on the runway, and her upbeat personality shone through when she danced down the runway to Disturbia. She was thrilled with how the show unfolded, especially how the balloons looked in the finale, and was eager to let us in on some of her guilty pleasures, unforgettable moments and insight on how we can ALL be more eco-friendly.

KDON, Cathers' collection for EFW 2013 and the 68lb challenge

Jess + Farah: We were surprised to discover that sixty-eight pounds is the amount of clothing each person throws away every year, do you think that a project like The 68lb Challenge will inspire others to be more eco-friendly?

Kim Cathers: I think that the stylists that showed before me [the Thrift Chic Challenge] show what you can do on your own. You can find pieces and put them together to make beautiful outfits without having any sewing skills. I think what I’m doing is showing that if you want to take it one step further…you can. A lot of the stuff I made was really simple, it may have looked really complicated but it wasn’t. I would cut one thing and put an elastic on it. A lot of it was deconstructed and made couture style. So I do the whole range of you could do that on your own or you could buy it from me. But I am hoping that by showing these kinds of styles it encourages people to see the different possibilities in what is discarded.

J+F: What was your budget for this project?

KC: Value Village allowed me this amazing privilege. I got to go during morning maintenance, which is when they take everything off the racks that has been there for three weeks, and I was able to look through the clothes and get stuff for free. The challenge was that not everything I wanted was being discarded that day. So they gave me five hundred dollars to supplement the collection. I spent most of the money on shoes and belts and some suits that I really loved that weren’t being thrown away any time soon. But for the most part it was all free. And when it gets taken off the rack it is literally going to be discarded, sent away, and never used again. So me and Myriam [founder of Eco-fashion week] have gone in the mornings at 3am to morning maintenance and it’s so fun and nobody gets to do that! It’s a huge privilege for me to be able to work with them. Value Village gave me free reign so I decided to put the challenge on myself this year to only use sweaters and men’s suits. I wanted to showcase all the things that could be made from a very small amount of material.

J+F: We loved your runway walk and we read that Disturbia is your favourite song. What is it about this song that you love so much?

KC: I will tell you a little secret.  This collection was built with hundreds of hours of Disturbia on repeat. I found that my most productive time was between 12am and 5am, and I would put on my headphones and play it on repeat for five hours. And I figured out why it worked for me. It’s because I love the song and I know it off by heart and so my mind was able to not think about the music but to feel happy while it was playing and concentrate on creativity and sewing. I found that when I would try to listen to different mixes or a song came on that I didn’t know the beat would mess me up. But I just know that the song is my go-to song. So it was totally fitting that the finale song was Disturbia.

looks from kdon

J+F: How did your experience on Project Runway prepare you for this?

KC: I think that working in a time crunch with limited materials set the precedent for being able to produce something creative and that was my vision. The pressure on that show was crazy and here no one is after me every day with deadlines. But I know it’s there. And I don’t want to be the guy that shows up to the runway with no clothes or everything is shitty, so I put the pressure on myself and I was able to do that because of having that experience before.

J+F: What was the most memorable article of clothing that you found while looking through the clothing at Value Village and what is your favourite piece that you found?

KC: That is a HARD question. I’ve been shopping at Value Village since I was fifteen so I have found a whole host of things. Last season I found a beautiful peach coloured crinoline and I have a costume trunk at home full of tutus, sparkly things and masks and so I always collect things for that. So finding the crinoline for that was amazing. I am a huge thriftier, I love thrift shopping. I found these leather leggings, and these shoes both from value village. I didn’t touch them at all I didn’t do anything to them, no sewing. I found them when I was looking for the show and then I was like nope… I’m going to keep them. And all the shoes in the show were from Value Village as well, the boots, heels, everything. And everything I found was from the Value Village on Victoria and [the one on] 48th and Hastings. Last season when I did the show shoes were kind of an issue, it was a spring summer collection and I’m really fussy about shoes, so finding strappy summer shoes was tough. But this season I found all of them, it was awesome!

J+F: In the words of Macklemore: can someone step into a thrift shop with $20 and find an entire outfit?

KC: You can. You can get a whole outfit for $20. If you have a certain aesthetic you are trying to achieve and you have very specific guidelines of what you want to buy maybe not. Maybe the pants you want are $15 and the jackets is $20. But you can get a cool outfit for $20 that you would like. But if you are going to be all fashionista and diva about it maybe not, you might have to spend $50. But still you’re saving money regardless.

kdon by Kim Cathers

{all images c/o Jessica Russell and Farah Tozy}

On April 21, Sad Mag writers Jessica Russell and Farah Tozy went on assignment for Vancouvers Eco-Fashion Week with the intent of discovering how fashionthat most of ephemeral and wasteful of pursuitsjustifies its involvement in the eco-friendly scene. How do luxury and consumerism co-exist with frugality and restraint? Over the following days, Jess and Farah discovered quite a lot that is new (most of it vintage!) in fashion and the green movement. Part 1 of 3.

 

 GOING GREEN // Eco-Fashion Week // P.1

Jess and Farah here, reporting from Robson Square on season six of Eco-Fashion Week, where we got a taste of Vancouver’s fabulous fashion scene, and started to feel a bit like celebrities ourselves. (Can you say complimentary Noodlebox and cocktails?) We discovered that eco-friendly fashion has a wide variety of incentives, initiatives and styles, which demonstrate just how inclusive eco-fashion and sustainable clothing’s development has become. EFW showcased designers and products not only from Vancouver, but from all around the world.

But before the good life goes to our heads—all those free carbs!—let’s turn to the people who are actually talented: raw material designer Madera Elena, Diana Svensk with her warm stylings, and Evan Ducharme with his polished looks.

 

'Merely Me' by Madera Elena, photo by Jessica Russell and Farah Tozy

MADERA ELENA, MERELY ME

“This woman radiated positive energy. I felt an honesty that is hard to come by.” -Jess

“Grace.” That is the word New Yorker Madera Elena chose to describe her collection, “Merely Me.” Elena believes that everything we have in this world is given to us, and it is our responsibility to reuse, recycle and protect the earth we live on. Her spiritual outlook influences every aspect of her collection; this season, she placed her focus on earth tones, pure whites and grays.

From Elena we learned that the most common reason people throw away their clothing is because it doesn’t fit anymore. Which is why, instead of using buttons, all of Madera’s pieces are tacked with a floral pin that is adjustable and allows the body to be free and comfortable. Each of her versatile pieces is reversible, convertible and can be worn in at least three different ways. In order to reduce her carbon footprint, she uses 80% recycled fabrics for her clothing in addition to recycled paper for her shoes and accessories. Her fabrics are light, breathable and simple.

According to Elena, we should recycle our clothes, just as we recycle our experiences throughout our lives, by taking the ugly things that don’t “fit” and making them positive. She left us with these inspiring words: “Being conscious of who we are is just ‘Merely Me.’”

 

Diana Svensk, photo by Jessica Russell and Farah Tozy

DIANA SVENSK, SVENSK DESIGNS

“Diana was such a riot to talk to! I honestly wanted to hang out with her after the show, and of course, borrow all her clothes!” –Farah

We have never met a more down-to-earth designer than charismatic Swedish designer, Diana Svensk. Svensk creates knitwear that is fun, flirty and wearable, focusing on warm and comfortable feel-good clothing. Svensk began her business making bow hats, and now she incorporates her velour bows as a trademark into her skirts, jackets, sweaters and winter accessories.

In her words, her style is “what you see is what you get.” Her designs are straightforward and are easily worn with a pair of black leggings. This one-of-a-kind designer embraces feminine colours such as pale pink and mustard yellow in combination with bold patterns. What makes her clothing eco-friendly is her use of 100% organic alpaca wool which is hypoallergenic as well as seven times warmer, three times stronger than sheep’s wool.

When asked about Eco-Fashion in Sweden, Svensk replied that it is developing and hopes that her appearance in Vancouver Eco-fashion week will help her generate awareness back at home.

 

 

 

'Belladonna' by Evan Ducharme, photo by Jessica Russell and Farah Tozy

EVAN DUCHARME, BELLADONA

“We knew he nailed it, and so did he. Fighting back tears of happiness, Evan melted our hearts and we were there to witness his first huge success!” –Jess and Farah

VCAD graduate Evan Ducharme blew us away with his collection “Belladonna” featuring feminine silhouettes, detailed tailoring, and a sophisticated modern style. This 20 year-old Manitoba native started connecting with the fashion world by volunteering at Eco-Fashion week. He was then approached by the head of Eco-Fashion week, Myriam Laroche, to present his first eco-friendly collection. Designing in East Vancouver, he utilizes reclaimed fabrics as well as natural fibres and transforms them into reworked form-fitting garments.

Together with inspiration from style icons Bette Davis and Audrey Hepburn, Ducharme aims to create a look for women of all ages who are strong and independent. Ducharme explained that military jackets had a big impact on his vision for this collection; he wanted to focus on accentuating the waist by cinching it in and having fuller skirts on the bottom. We look forward to seeing what this young designer does next!